Infrared willow

Camera Conversions

A field guide to converting your camera for infrared.

What actually happens inside the body, how to pick a wavelength, whether to convert a DSLR or a mirrorless — and when a full-spectrum conversion with clip-in filters beats them both.

The short version

The hot mirror comes out. A new filter goes in.

Every digital camera has a filter glued in front of the sensor to block near-infrared light. A conversion removes it. In its place, a shop installs a new filter tuned to a wavelength you choose — or clear glass, if you want the whole spectrum. Autofocus is recalibrated for the new light and white balance is set against a neutral IR reference. The camera is now dedicated to seeing what your eyes can’t.

It’s permanent. It’s not a filter effect. And it’s the single change that opens infrared as a daily practice instead of a novelty.

Choosing a wavelength

590nm vs 665nm vs 720nm vs 850nm.

The number is the cut-on: light shorter than it is blocked, light longer passes through. Lower numbers let in more of the visible spectrum (especially red) and give you more color to work with. Higher numbers give you cleaner, more classic black-and-white infrared.

590nm

Goldie

Warm, painterly, closest to a normal photograph.

Foliage
Gold / peach
Sky
Deep teal

Portraits with foliage, autumn scenes, editorial color work.

665nm

Extra color

Balanced false-color — white trees, blue skies, pink accents.

Foliage
White with pink
Sky
Blue

All-round landscape and travel. What this site is shot on.

720nm

Standard IR

High contrast, mostly monochromatic out of camera.

Foliage
Bright white
Sky
Near-black

Classic IR and easy conversion to fine-art B&W.

850nm

Deep IR

Pure infrared. No color information — this is a B&W tool.

Foliage
Glowing white
Sky
Black

Dramatic monochrome landscapes and long-exposure water.

590nm — Goldie

Foliage
Gold / peach
Sky
Deep teal
Colour left to work with
Most — a full channel swap works
Best for
Portraits with foliage, autumn scenes, editorial color work.

665nm — Extra color

Foliage
White with pink
Sky
Blue
Colour left to work with
Plenty — the balanced choice for false colour
Best for
All-round landscape and travel. What this site is shot on.

720nm — Standard IR

Foliage
Bright white
Sky
Near-black
Colour left to work with
Very little; effectively monochrome
Best for
Classic IR and easy conversion to fine-art B&W.

850nm — Deep IR

Foliage
Glowing white
Sky
Black
Colour left to work with
None
Best for
Dramatic monochrome landscapes and long-exposure water.

Descriptions reflect how these wavelengths render in my own frames; exact colour depends on the body, the light and your processing.

Links to Kolari Vision are affiliate links: if you buy through them the site earns a commission at no extra cost to you. They are the shop my own conversions and filters came from, and the recommendation would be the same without the program — full disclosure.

Bodies

DSLR or mirrorless?

Both convert well. Image quality is essentially identical behind the same filter. What differs is the shooting experience — and in infrared, that difference matters.

DSLR

The traditional workhorse.

  • + Huge selection of cheap used bodies (D750, 6D, 5D III).
  • + Long battery life, familiar controls.
  • − Optical viewfinder shows a normal scene, not the IR image.
  • − AF may need per-lens micro-adjust after conversion.

Mirrorless

What-you-see-is-what-you-get.

  • + EVF previews the actual IR image, live, with custom white balance.
  • + Sensor-based AF is accurate at every wavelength, every lens.
  • + Silent shutter and IBIS on many bodies.
  • − Some lens/body combos show a center hot-spot — check databases first.

If you’re starting from zero, buy a used mirrorless body and convert it. The live IR preview makes the whole practice legible.

Full spectrum

One body. Every wavelength. Filter-defined.

A full-spectrum conversion replaces the hot mirror with clear glass, so the sensor sees UV, the entire visible spectrum, and the whole near-infrared range. The filter you put in front of it — or clip into it — decides which slice you record for that shot.

Option A

Screw-on lens filters

Threaded glass on the front of each lens (Hoya R72, B+W 093, Kolari IR Chrome). Works on any body — including DSLRs — but you must compose before mounting the filter, and buying every diameter gets expensive fast.

  • + Works with any camera you already own.
  • + Massive selection of filters and wavelengths.
  • − Slow workflow: unscrew, compose, re-mount.
  • − Cost multiplies with every new lens diameter.

Option B

Clip-in filters

A thin square of glass that snaps into the body between mount and sensor. One filter works across every lens; swap wavelengths in seconds; the EVF stays IR-accurate. Body-specific (Sony E, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Fuji X) and mirrorless only.

  • + One filter, every lens.
  • + Fast on-location swaps between 665/720/850/UV.
  • + No vignetting on ultra-wide glass.
  • − Mount-specific; requires mirrorless clearance.

Brands: Kolari · STC · Haida

Dedicated conversion (e.g. 665nm or 720nm)

Wavelengths available
One, fixed at conversion time
Workflow
Pick up and shoot — nothing to add in front of the lens
Extra kit needed
None
Best for
One clear look, lowest total cost, DSLR or mirrorless

Full spectrum + clip-in filters

Wavelengths available
Any, chosen per shot
Workflow
Swap a filter inside the body in seconds; one filter covers every lens
Extra kit needed
A clip-in filter per wavelength; mount-specific
Best for
Mirrorless shooters who want every look from one body

Full spectrum + screw-on lens filters

Wavelengths available
Any, chosen per shot
Workflow
Unscrew, compose, re-mount for each frame
Extra kit needed
A filter per lens diameter (or step-up rings)
Best for
Anyone, including DSLR users, who already owns filter threads

A full-spectrum mirrorless body with a set of clip-in filters is the closest thing infrared has to a Swiss-army knife.

Ready to convert?

Where I send my own cameras.

My converted bodies and the filters in front of them came from Kolari Vision, and that is the shop I point people to. They convert to each of the wavelengths above, recalibrate autofocus at conversion time, and publish a public lens hotspot database that is useful even if you never buy from them.

That is my editorial recommendation based on using their work, not a claim about the whole market — I have not tested competing conversion services, and my methodology page spells out what I do and do not verify. Check current pricing and turnaround on their site; I do not quote prices here because they change.

Links to Kolari Vision are affiliate links: if you buy through them the site earns a commission at no extra cost to you. They are the shop my own conversions and filters came from, and the recommendation would be the same without the program — full disclosure.

Before you order, read these

Keep reading

Four field notes on infrared conversions.